Do Darker Skin Tones Require SPF?

Skin Tones

I’ll make my apologies in advance; I know that I continually advocate the use of sunscreen. I wear SPF50 every day of the year. Summer or winter, in the city or countryside, while on vacation, or in the garden. It has become somewhat of an obsession for me. But something I am asked almost on a daily basis is, Do Darker Skin Tones Require SPF?

Do Darker Skin Tones Require SPF?

Do Darker Skin Tones Require SPF?

Contrary to popular belief, and despite black skin, the propensity for a sun-kissed finish is as pervasive amongst black women as it is amongst their Caucasian sisters. The problem is, it is rarely done safely!

I am highly aware that my dedication to SPF is uncommon. So, it greatly concerns me when women admit that they never wear it when I love it so much and understand clearly the benefits of using it! It is believed that as many as 90% of black women never consider wearing sunscreen, except for the occasions they are on a beach and sometimes not even then. So, the question is, ‘do all skin tones need SPF?’

Since ancient times there is a long-standing belief that exists, a misconception if you like that the high level of Melanin in black skin is all the protection they need in the sun.

It’s often said that black people don’t burn. Consequently, there are many black ladies on holiday that will happily stay on the beach practically from sun up to sun down with no sun protection. They never give a thought about the risk of getting skin cancer. However, they like to moisturise to the hilt (because they can’t be dealing with ash-colored skin).


Protect Your Delicate Skin:

Applying an SPF is considered an integral part of prudent skincare and beauty, but should all skin types observe it?

Dermatologists continuously remind us to wear sunscreen, even under grey cloudy skies. The list of sun-related diseases is of great concern – skin cancer, ageing, pigmentation, and rightly so. There are many inconsistencies about sunscreen and its marketing, even with all the advice and superstars continually reminding us to apply sun protection. Far too many people forget how important it is to use and reapply throughout the day!

People with dark skin pigmentation have skin that is naturally rich in Melanin (especially eumelanin). They have more melanosomes which provide superior protection against the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation.

The Melanin in people of darker skin blocks sunlight naturally. The skin’s epidermal (outer) layer are cells that contain the pigment melanin. Melanin protects the skin from the sun’s ultraviolet rays, which, as we know, burns the skin.

Melanin may help protect the skin from damaging UV rays. However, it may also make darker skin more susceptible to hyperpigmentation, which can be caused by sun damage. Regular SPF usage is one of the best ways to prevent this. Some sunscreen products are now available that contain ingredients to mitigate hyperpigmentation. For patients with stubborn dark marks on the face, it’s advised to look for a sunscreen that contains zinc oxide (found in many tinted formulas). Zinc Oxide protects the skin from the sun, indoor light, and computer screens.

Although dark skin has some innate sun protection due to Melanin, it’s an inescapable necessity for everyone to use an adequate SPF to protect themselves.


Skin Cancer From The Sun:

skin cancer

While sun-induced skin cancer is rare in darker skin tones, it can and does occur and frequently isn’t identified until it’s too late to be treated. When they occur, they tend to be diagnosed at a later stage and, as a result, have a worse prognosis.

For example, one study found an average five-year melanoma survival rate of only 65 percent in black people versus 91 percent in white people. Another showed that late-stage melanoma diagnoses are more common in Hispanic and black patients than in non-Hispanic white patients.

There’s a lower public awareness overall of the risk of skin cancer among individuals of color. Source – https://www.skincancer.org

It may be partially due to a lack of understanding of skin cancer’s various risk factors in people with darker skin tones.

The bottom line is that the only proven way to prevent skin cancer is to stay out of excessive sunlight and use a high-quality sunscreen. If you are dark-skinned, you’re encouraged to wear sunscreen at all times.


Basking In The Sun – All Day Long!

Girl on beach

So many of us are instinctively drawn to the sun, long summer days relaxing on the beach, loving how it colours our skin, and enjoying the freedom to wear clothes that allow us to flaunt our tanned bodies.

One summer, hell-bent on getting a glow to end all glows, a dear friend roasted herself almost to a cinder on a beach in the Mediterranean. She applied oil that made her skin sizzle and shine, believing this to be a good thing – and positioned herself directly under the blazing sunlight, following the sun rays faithfully!

By the time the sun went down, she had looked fabulous, a deeper, glossier darker shade of ebony. She complimented herself, how beautiful and smooth her skin looked, and planned to ‘top-up’ her tan each day. However, after taking a shower and drying herself, she noticed her skin begin to peel and how painfully sore her skin was to touch. She soon realised black skin ‘absolutely’ does burn! The remainder of the holiday was not spent on the beach!

Ever since she never goes out in the sun without a high factor SPF. She even applies it to her face when just walking around the town now.

However, we also need to remember the sun isn’t always harmful to us, and precisely why sunlight is good for us. We need vitamin D that it stimulates to protect against inflammation, helps muscles, and prevents rickets, and lowers high blood pressure.

Research has shown that when our skin is exposed to the sun’s rays, a compound is released in our blood vessels that help’s to lower blood pressure.

Sunscreen isn’t the only way to avoid sun damage. You can get excellent sun protection from a floppy hat, sunglasses, and staying out of the sun. One tip is to allow the vitamin D to be absorbed by the torso while keeping your face protected.

(It is always good to have a good ‘After Sun’ with you when sunbathing.

Piz Buin After Sun - Instant Relief

Piz Buin After Sun Instant Relief Mist Spray)


We Are All Sun-Worshippers At Heart!

Girl in Sunset

There are well-meaning skincare specialists who like to educate us on the need to apply sunscreen and remind black people that we are not immune to sun damage!

For many black people, staying out in the sun is not something they do.

I recently went to Barbados, and as the sun was at its strongest, it was mostly the Caucasians in the sun. The locals were back in the cafes, restaurants, and bars by noon and stayed out of the sun until late afternoon.

Aside from the “black skin doesn’t burn” myth, another reason many black women forsake the SPF is that, at some point, we have looked in the mirror and thought, “Oh, look it’s a ghost!” Actually, no, it’s just my SPF!

For so long, SPFs have left an unsightly chalky appearance – some so intense that a decent foundation would struggle to counteract the ghostly grey finish. Unfortunately, so many black people have abstained from sun protection because of this, but now ‘physical’ sunscreens have improved considerably. There isn’t such a big issue with ‘ghosting.’

Beyond protecting skin from sun damage, skin cancer, and premature ageing, applying sunscreen is arguably the key to preventing hyperpigmentation. Hyperpigmentation is a sign of photoaging in people with skin of color. The occurrence and re-occurrence are conceivably the biggest skincare complaints I hear from this demographic, also known as age spots or sunspots.

The issue of hyperpigmentation is the main reason SPF is part of my daily skincare program. My beauty regime is crammed with products that address dark spots and discoloration. These include vitamin C, liquid exfoliators, lactic acid, fruit enzymes masks; you name it, I’m sure I use it.

The one thing that I have learned is that you can use all the skin brighteners and pigmentation-busting products available to improve your skin. The simple fact is, if you don’t finish off with a high-quality SPF, you are merely wasting your time! All the age spots, discolouration and scarring issues will intensify if you allow the sun to beat down on them day after day without sun protection applied.

Mercifully, there are now high SPF formula’s on the market that won’t leave you looking pale or risk clogging your pores.


Paula's Choice UK


Chemical And Physical Sunscreen:

There are two kinds of SPFs. Physical sunscreen consists mainly of either zinc or titanium oxide or indeed both! It works by sitting on the skin and deflects the sun’s rays. Chemical sunscreen, with ingredients like salicylates and cinnamates, absorbs the UV rays, turns them into heat, and releases it from the skin. If you have a darker skin tone, I find that chemical SPFs work better on this skin tone as they don’t leave that dreadful overbearing residue.

I am currently delighted with Skin Ceuticals Ultra Facial Defense SPF50. This lightweight and easily absorbed hydrating sunscreen helps prevent UV-induced collagen breakdown, UV induced hyperpigmentation, UV-induced dark spots, and other signs of premature aging caused by the sun’s harsh rays.

Especially ideal for sensitive skin La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid  SPF50+. La Roche-Posay will help to find a solution. Even for those with the most delicate and reactive of skin. An ultra-resistant formula specifically developed for sensitive skin; this lightweight facial sunscreen provides broad-spectrum SPF50 protection, assisted with Mexoplex®. A patented filtering system Mexoplex® and La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water that offers maximum benefits.

This Non-greasy and non-sticky sun lotion is applied effortlessly without leaving white marks. It is ultra sand, sweat, and water-resistant. Without stinging your eyes yet still offering very high protection, it is also hypoallergenic.

Sisley’s Super Soin Solaire Facial Sun Care SPF30 is more pricey than most, but the tech behind it is somewhat cutting edge, and it goes on and feels like silk. This sunscreen has been developed so as not to leave a white appearance on the skin. It is Water-resistant, Non-comedogenic, and Naturally scented with essential oils of Sage and Marjoram.

It provides ideal anti-UVA-UVB protection for initial exposure to the sun and those with fair or sun-sensitive skin needing a high degree of protection.

If you are looking for an SPF that is suitable for general everyday use, Paula’s Choice Resist Super-Light Daily Wrinkle Defense – Broad Spectrum SPF 30. For people with sensitive, oily skin, it’s Lightly tinted mattifying moisturizing lotion protects the skin from the sun. A super-light anti-aging moisturizer with SPF30 protection minimizes shine by absorbing excess oil. It has a gentle mineral-based sunscreen with a potent blend of antioxidants that protect and fortify the skin. The soft matte and sheer tint finish make for the perfect make-up base. This gentle, mineral-based formula has a sheer tint that works superbly for all skin tones that can be worn alone or applied under your foundation. Its lotion texture leaves a soft matte finish that perfectly preps skin, allowing make-up to apply smoothly and evenly (no primer needed).


Conclusion:

Generally, just to be on the safe side, I stick to SPF 50, but I realise that maybe a no-no to some. For those like me who can’t resist the wonderful feeling of sun rays beating down on them, there are now sunscreen sprays, gels, lotions, and creams. With this range of ingenious formulations, there isn’t any excuse not to use SPF when outdoors. Regardless of how much Melanin our skin might have, the reality is black does burn, and if you don’t use an SPF, you just might find that out!

The damage caused by the sun can take years to appear, look after your skin now before its too late.



 

Sun Care For The Face

sunscreen face

The media are continually telling us that our summers are getting hotter, and lasting a lot longer. So, if we believe what the weather experts are saying, we can expect it to carry on getting hotter and hotter each year, this is why ‘Sun Care For The Face’ is so important.

Rising Temperatures

We as holidaymakers, and no doubt the tourist industry welcome long warm sunny days with prolonged periods of heat, but on the flip side the extreme weather can have serious implications to our well-being. Intense heat brings serious health issues; the air quality deteriorates leading to respiratory problems, heat stroke, and sunburn. The people most vulnerable are the young, elderly and those who have serious medical issues.

Sun Protection All Year Round

Another mistake many people make is thinking they only need to protect their skin in the summer months. Winter is just as dangerous to your facial skin, don’t be fooled into thinking that just because the sun isn’t beating down at 35’celcius, it isn’t inflicting damage. Clouds might shade you from direct sunlight, but it cannot stop harmful rays from reaching your delicate skin. You need to apply either sunscreen or a moisturizer with Sun Protection Factor (preferably SPF 30 or above) as part of your daily routine.

*I would urge Everyone to watch the following video, it’s only 3 minutes long, you will be very surprised by what you see!


The Dangers – UVA & UVB:

It is your face that is exposed to harmful sun rays more than any other part of your body. So, this is why sun care, for your face, is so important. The ‘deadly duo’ ready to attack sun worshipers are UVA & UVB rays. It is the UVB rays that have intense heat that causes the skin to burn.

skin cancer

People who are heading for their summer vacation seem more concerned about protecting themselves from UVB rays almost ignoring the sever implications from UVA rays. Sunbathers want to be able to stay out in the sun for hours on end and get a perfect golden suntan! They seem to think the only thing that matters is they buy a sunscreen with a high Sun Protection Factor, and they can lay on the beach from sun up to sun down!

Listen To Your Body!

UVA warning

Sunburn is the bodies way of alerting people they are getting UVB damage to their skin; if you keep getting sunburn on your face instance, this will lead to actinic keratosis of the skin. You will see dry, rough, scaly patches develop; these appear more often on the lips, ears, forehead, and scalp. It can become inflamed and red and could ultimately lead to skin cancer.

UVA rays have less energy than UVB rays but they do penetrate deeper into the skin and cause more serious skin cancers. UVA rays are a little sneaky as they cause damage to the skin without it getting sunburned. In particular drivers who cover long distances have to be very careful as UVA rays can penetrate glass and be shining of the drivers face for many hours causing untold amount of damage. UVA rays are what makes the skin go brown and with this comes dark facial spots, lines and aging to the skin and ultimately wrinkles.


SPF = Sun Protection Factor:

Sun Protection Factor is a measure of protection you get from UVB rays. The higher the factor number, the better protection you will get when sunscreen is applied to the face and body to try and protect your skin from sunburn. The most commonly used Sun Protection Factor number can range from 15 up to 50.


Read – The Best 5 Sunscreens For The Face

sunscreen face


An SPF of 15 will block approximately 93% of UVB rays from your skin, SPF 30 will block 95%, and an SPF 50 will block 98% of UVB rays. The one flaw with these ratings is that all testing was done in a controlled manner, where the UVB rays that came into contact with the volunteers were consistent, in real life it’s not like that. If you go out in the sun at noon, you will be exposed to much stronger rays than in the early evening, say 5.00pm. So caution is strongly recommended, avoid the hottest part of the day and always listen to what your skin is trying to tell you! You will never get 100% protection from UV rays when you are in the sun!


*Look to the Stars!*

When purchasing your sun protection, as well as looking at the SPF you will also want to look for the number of stars* you will see on the bottle. It is a rating system that tells you how much protection you will get from UVA rays. The star ratings go from 0 up to 5; if you see a bottle with zero or 1 star, it is to be avoided at all cost. Ideally, you will be looking for a high Sun Protection Factor with five stars on your next bottle of sunscreen!

UVA Star Rating

Important UVA clouds Even on a cloudy day, when the sun is not shining or partially hidden behind clouds, UVA rays are still there, they penetrate the clouds causing skin damage, it is essential to apply sunscreen to your face on a cloudy day.


PA rating System:

You may also see the PA rating system telling you how much protection you get against UVA rays. It is a system the Japanese tend to use on their sunscreen products, although we mostly see the stars system now it’s worth knowing just in case you see it on a sunscreen bottle.

PA+ means Low Protection, PA++ Moderate Protection, PA+++ High Protection.


Broad Spectrum:

Another way you might see your sunscreen labeled is with the words ‘Broad Spectrum’ It will have an SPF rating on it, and basically it’s telling you that it also has ingredients in it that protect you from UVA rays as well. It will have at least one of the following active ingredients in it to protect you from UVA rays: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone, Mexoryl SX (ecamsule) or Tinosorb.


A lightweight daily sunscreen with SPF50+ specifically formulated for sensitive skin types.

La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+


Enjoy the Sun – Safely!

Important things to remember when buying your sunscreen are your skin type and skin colour. Pale, sensitive skin will burn a lot quicker than say someone with an olive complexion. Don’t think that if you buy a sunscreen with a high Sun Protection Factor, it will mean that after two weeks on holiday you will still be going home looking pale, you will get that vital suntan but in a safer more controlled manner.

Buying the most expensive sunscreen doesn’t automatically mean you are getting the best sun care for the face, buying an expensive brand and using it sparingly because you are trying to make it last is a surefire way to getting sunburned! Some other important things to remember about sunscreen protection:

  • Apply at least 15 minutes before going out in the sun                                                                    sun sand sea
  • Apply Liberally and remember to reapply every 2-3 hours
  • Water resistant means it will last approx’ 40 minutes when you are wet
  • Wear a hat and UV rated sunglasses, these will also protect delicate skin around the eyes
  • Avoid the sun when it’s at it hottest
  • Wear sunscreen all year round!
  • Remember to rehydrate your skin after sunbathing

 

Which rating system do you follow when buying sunscreen for your face? Please leave any comments or questions below, and I will be happy to discuss them with you.

jo@yourskincarehelp.com